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Can YOU Afford to Retire? | 4% Rule Explained | Safe Withdrawal Rate

How much money do you think you would need to be able to retire? It's a question that a lot of people have asked their financial advisers and it's one that seems to have a different answer for just about every time it's asked. And the reason for that is simple the amount of money that you need to be able to retire depends entirely on how much money you think you can earn in retirement through interest and dividends and maybe even a part-time job if that's your thing, and perhaps even more importantly how much money you're actually going to need to survive in retirement. And that number seems to change each and every time you ask as well because projections of things like medical expenses change as time goes on. And I'm sure those of you who are nearing retirement watching this video know medical expenses just seem to be going through the roof, particularly for retirees. But that doesn't really help us it doesn't give us a goal to strive for as we're going through our working careers. We may not be able to come up with an exact number that we'll need but can we come up with something that's at least going to be close? Well today I'm going to talk about something called the 4% rule and how it gives us that goal to shoot for.

I'm also going to be talking about some other factors to keep in mind when you're using this rule of thumb as well as some situations where you're going to want to avoid the 4% rule in entirely. Let's get started. So what is the 4% rule? It's a rule of thumb that's used to determine the amount of funds that you will withdraw from a retirement account each year. It's also sometimes called the safe withdrawal rate because the money you take out usually consists mostly of interest and dividends, and thus your principal either stays the same or goes down a little bit but not too much. In fact in 1994 a financial advisor named William Bengan did an exhaustive study of historical returns in the market focusing heavily on the severe Market crashes of the great Depression and the early 1970s and concluded that even during those hard Times no historical case existed where the safe withdrawal rate exhausted a retirement portfolio in less than 33 years.

And for most of us 33 years would easily cover our retirement. The idea behind the rule is that once you have approximately 25 times your annual expenses saved for retirement you should be able to retire with reasonable certainty that you could survive until death on your savings. Because at that point the amount that you take out for your annual expenses would be approximately 4% of your retirement savings. And when I say 4% of your retirement savings I mean your entire retirement savings anything that's been earmarked to use only in retirement this includes 401ks IRAs and any other ways you've saved a nest egg for retirement.

For example if you had $450,000 in your 401k and $50,000 personal IRA then you would have $500,000 in all of your retirement accounts and your initial withdrawal on the first year retirement would be 4% of that $500,000 or $20,000. So some other factors that you're going to want to keep in mind when using the 4% rule in addition to keeping an eye on your expenses, is to account for inflation. The 4% rule believe it or not actually allows you to increase the amount you withdraw to keep Pace with inflation. You can account for this either by just setting a flat 2% increase to your withdrawals each year which is the target inflation rate by the Federal Reserve or by just looking to see what the inflation rate was for the current year and adjusting based off of that. Now you might be wondering how this could possibly be I mean if you increase how much you would withdraw to keep up with inflation won't you eventually run out of money? It's a legitimate question but as it turns out no.

And it's because over the long term the market goes up. Now there are a lot of numbers that are thrown around by financial advisors about how much the market actually goes up I've heard anything from 6 to 10% a year on average. I'm going to be conservative here and go with the 6% end of the scale. So let's go back to the example I've been using in the video you start off retirement with $500,000 in savings, and in the first year of retirement you withdraw $20,000 or 4% of your savings. And I'm also using a compound interest calculator here, and it assumes that whatever you withdraw is withdrawn right at the start of the year.

So the $20,000 is going to be withdrawn on January 1st of every year. I'm only noting that because it makes it a worst case scenario you were to say withdraw $20,000 over the course of an entire year but you did it in installments of $1,600 each month you would be able to earn interest on the rest of the money that you hadn't yet withdrawn throughout the rest of the year and thus you're ending net worth would end up being a little bit higher than it will be in this example. So on January 1st you withdraw $20,000, meaning you only have $480,000 left in your nest egg. But over the course of the year the market goes up by 6% which means the value of your portfolio at December 31st would be $508,800. Now in year two of retirement you increase your withdrawal by 2%. So on January 1st of the second year of your retirement you withdraw $20,400. That brings your portfolio value down from $508,800 to $488,400. But again the market goes up 6%, which by December 31st brings the total value of your portfolio up to $517,704. If you were to continue to calculate this out for 30 years you're ending net worth would be $787,716.90, almost $300,000 dollars more than what you started with in retirement! But of course this is just a rule of thumb so there are situations where you're going to want to avoid using this all together.

One of those situations would be if your portfolio consists of a lot more higher risk Investments then say your typical index funds and bonds that are usually in a retirement portfolio. This is because obviously a higher risk investment can go down a lot faster than your typical retirement portfolios, which can be extremely devastating especially early on in retirement. Also this rule of thumb only really works if you stick to it year in and year out. And if you're not going to be able to do that then you don't want to use this as your retirement goal, because even violating the rule for one year to splurge on a major purchase can have a severe effect on your retirement savings down the road because the principal from which the interest and dividends that you get to survive is compounded from gets reduced. Let me give you an example of how this works: Say that in addition to taking out the $20,000 your first year in retirement, you decide to treat yourself with a new car and figuring that you'll be traveling a lot during retirement you want to get one that's good, big, and comfortable as well as reliable.

So for this example let's say you get a new Toyota 4Runner for about $35,000. Now I know that you could probably find it for cheaper used, but not everybody likes to buy cars used I know my dad didn't and besides this is just an example. So you drop $35,000 on a new car and you still have to have money to live so the $20,000 still does come out of your retirement, meaning that you only have $445,000 leftover. Now admittedly the market still does go up about 6% leaving you with a nest egg of $471,700 at the end of the year.

And even if you were to stick to the 4% withdrawal rate for the rest of retirement which, would be 30 years in this example, by the 27th year you would be taking out more than you earned an interest and dividends as well as how much the market went up. And by the 30th year of retirement you would withdraw $35,516, but with interest, dividends, and Market appreciation your portfolio would have only gained $33,209 in value.

And that could put you in a pretty dangerous position should the market go down for a couple years, or if you have some kind of medical emergency. Now I don't want to make it seem all bad, I mean unless you retired early, after 30 years in retirement you're probably in your 90s and don't need the money to last very much longer and even in this example you still do end with $586,000. It could be worse right? However I do want to bring your attention to the difference that this made. This one purchase made your ending net worth that you could have left as inheritance to your children or grandchildren or even donated to charity go from $787,000 all the way down to $586,000, that's a difference of over $200,000. And all that's with just one splurge. But that'll about do it for me I hope you enjoyed the video and if you did or if you learned something be sure to like And subscribe I've got a lot more of these Finance coming out in the near future as well as some more book summaries and other fun stuff.

But with that being said, thanks for watching and have a great day. .

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7 Core Elements of Retirement Planning

Everyone bill Lessman here for money evolution calm in today's video I'm gonna be talking about what I call the seven core elements of retirement planning so if you're somebody that wants to get more serious about the planning that you're doing for retirement then I think you're really going to enjoy this video now if you've watched any of my other videos maybe on my blog or my youtube channel or Facebook page then you probably have already heard me talk a little bit about some of these seven core elements individually what I plan to do in this video is really bring them all together really show how each of these seven core elements are all interrelated and hopefully at the end of this video you're going to have some information to help you make some more well-informed decisions about your own retirement but real quick before I get into the presentation I wanted to draw your attention to a free guide that I put together it's the seven core elements of retirement planning guide and in this I have all of the information or a lot of the information that I'm going to cover here in today's video plus there's some great worksheets that you can complete on your own to really help you get a good start towards putting together some of this planning for yourself so to get access to that guide I'm going to put a link right below this video if you click on that link it'll take you to a page just put your email address in there and we'll go ahead and send you out that guide I'll wait here and I'll see everyone back here as we get into presentation okay so welcome back so if you're starting to do some planning for your retirement whether retirements may be coming up in the next year or two or even if retirements still a few years off into the future you probably realize already that there's a lot of different aspects of your retirement and that's what we're gonna be talking about here so let's take a look at these seven core elements so number one on the list is we need to understand how much your retirement could cost and what we call identify your gap the second thing on the list is we need to know where to save money obviously there's lots of choices there's Roth IRAs there's 401k plans traditional accounts so we need to know where to save the money based on your own personal situation and your own individual tax situation we also need to talk about Social Security obviously that's going to be a big component for many of you watching this video is when to collect Social Security how to coordinate your Social Security benefits with your spouse if you're married so that's very important health care that actually may be what I think is one of the most underestimated or overlooked retirement expenses that's out there and there's a lot of information that you need to understand about health care so we're gonna talk about that a little bit here we also need to look at 401k plans so you might have a 401k you might have a 403b plan at work or some other employer sponsored retirement plans we need to know how to best take advantage of that 401k plan there's a lot of features that a lot of people may not fully be aware of that could be inside your 401k plan so how to take advantage of that is certainly very important we need to create a plan for income so if you've been investing for your lifetime and while you're working you were in what we call the retirement accumulation phase once you go into retirement we need to think differently we need to look at how to plan for withdrawals on your portfolio we need to look at things much much differently for that and then finally the last item on the list is investments choosing the investments that are gonna fit within your individual retirement plans and to help you achieve what your retirement goals are unfortunately this item here that we list as number seven on the list is oftentimes the one that people look at first in fact if you turn on the business channel you look at CNBC or you open up the Wall Street Journal or read pretty much any financial publication if you flip through the pages a lot of the discussion a lot of the advertisements are all pushing you towards certain investments they're talking about returns and the performance of this fund versus that fund they're talk about mutual funds they're talking about annuities exchange-traded funds they may be talking about costs you know in looking at low-cost options and they would have you believe that really this is the most important thing that you need to be thinking about regarding your retirement and certainly the investments are absolutely very very important but we want to look at these investments after we've already addressed these other seven core elements and if we start here with investments a lot of times we can kind of get distracted we can get thrown off course a little bit because we really haven't put into thought here how those investments are gonna fit within your your own individual retirement plan but once we've addressed those seven core elements and we start choosing investments now we have a clear vision for what we need those investments to do and what we want them to do to create your plan for income and to create the retirement lifestyle that you want so we're gonna get into each one of these here in a little bit more detail and I'm gonna again start to show you how each one of these seven core elements are gonna be interrelated with one another okay so let's start right here in the middle what we want to do here with this very first core element is we want to try to understand how much your retirement is going to cost or could cost and we also want to identify how much of a gap you have between where you want to be for those retirement goals versus where you are today and what I like to refer to here what I like to think about is begin with the end in mind so here's your retirement and what I want you to do is start thinking about what it is that you think your retirement is going to look like for example what will your housing situation be do you plan to stay in your current house do you plan to downsize homes do you plan to spend winter someplace warm you also want to think about the things that you want to do in retirement so you can have a lot of free time you're not gonna have to go to work anymore so think about the hobbies that you plan to do you plan to play golf every day or do you like to travel and start thinking about how much some of those expenses are going to be and you also want to look and see okay so basically what is your current situation how much are you saving for your retirement how much money do you already have saved for retirement and what we want to look at here and I think this is very important that a lot of people may tend to overlook essentially is that we have a trade-off basically we have our lifestyle that we have today versus that lifestyle that we want to have in retirement and if we think about this for a second here if we spend all of our money today we don't save anything for retirement we're gonna have a great lifestyle here today but that retirements not going to look very good contrary to that we could be saving a whole bunch of money for retirement putting away all kinds of money but that may be sacrificing that lifestyle that we have here today so I want you to think about that a little bit in terms of what are you trading off and I think there's a lot of people because they haven't maybe done some of these calculations they could be in a position where they're saving almost too much money for the retirement they're really sacrificing and giving up a lot of things today and there's a couple of different categories of this there's there's things that of course we have our money that we're saving so if we save more money today that's less money that we can have for the future for that retirement but we also have time as well and so what I mean by that is we may be working ourselves putting all kinds of stress on our on our health on our situation by maybe working a whole bunch we're saving a lot of money for retirement but we're really sacrificing that quality of life here today and so be thinking about all of these different aspects not just the financial aspect of how much you're saving but think about that think about like I said your health – and are you taking care of your yourself from a health standpoint as well because by the time we get to this retirement we want to have healthy bodies we want to be able to go out and do those things be able to play golf in and live that retirement lifestyle so again this is at the very center of these seven core elements and everything else is going to be interrelated to what this retirement gap is actually going to be and and how that's going to affect that future retirement lifestyle okay so now that you've hopefully uncovered what this retirement gap is and you've really kind of gotten an idea of what your retirement cash flow is going to be and cash flow is something that we refer to a lot here on some of the videos that we do but really it is the lifeblood of not only your retirement situation but also your current financial situation it's basically money coming in versus money going out and almost everything else on this list here is going to in some way or another affect cash flow the other thing that I want to talk about here before I start getting into each one of these seven core elements and a little bit more detail are taxes now when I created the seven more elements I thought a lot about how to include taxes should that be its own separate element and what I ultimately decided was that taxes are certainly very important and it's a big part of what we do here in terms of some of our planning but what we're going to talk about is we started looking at these seven core elements as we're gonna look at how taxes are going to influence a lot of these different categories here okay so let's start right off the bat and let's talk about where to save money and obviously we have lots of choices we have Roth accounts like Roth IRAs you even have Roth's 401k plans now and you have traditional accounts and and for retirement savings those are probably two of the most primary areas and basically that's a big decision for a lot of us and what we really need to uncover is what is our tax situation likely going to be in the future versus what is that tax situation going to be today and again it goes right back here to this cash flow and understanding what those gaps are and what does our current situation today versus what is that situation going to be in the future so the Roth is going to be favorable if we think we're going to be in a higher tax bracket in retirement than we are today and the traditional account is going to be more favorable if we think we're going to be in a lower tax bracket in the future so we want to look at that the other thing we want to take a look at and I've actually got a entire video on our YouTube channel where I talk about this is investments for retirement in non retirement accounts and I go into a whole huge explanation as to why I think that is really just wasting a lot of money when it comes to to taxes there so again uncovering what those gaps are is going to help us to figure out where should we be saving money what's going to be the most optimal for that future cash flow situation and for our current tax situation let's look over here to Social Security again that's going to be a very big component we could take Social Security benefits as early as age 62 or we could delay Social Security benefits to as late as age 70 and basically there's a lot of decisions to make there again it's going to come back to understanding that cash flow so there's a lot of be out there talking about how to maximize social security benefits there's even some calculators that you might be able to find out on the web what often times is missing from some of those calculators is how that decision as to when to collect Social Security is going to impact that cash flow situation and contrary how that's going to affect your tax situation as well so we need to look at that and there's also gonna be a coordination of benefits that you need to take into consideration if you're married and you have a spouse because you might decide that one of you collects Social Security benefits early to get a little bit of cash flow coming in but maybe the other spouse is going to wait and delay those Social Security benefits whether or not you're going to be working in retirement is also going to impact that and impact the potential taxes that you're going to have on Social Security health care I talked about this here a few moments ago where health care I think is one of the most underestimated expenses in fact according to a recent survey or study by fidelity investments they determined that an average couple retiring this year that 65 years old could expect to spend two hundred and forty five thousand dollars on health care related costs over their retirement lifetime so that is a huge number a quarter of a million dollars just to cover and fund our health care and that does not include by the way any potential nursing home expenses or long-term care expenses so that's a big deal we also need to consider health care for any of you that may be planning to retire before Medicare that starts at age 65 so you need to look at how your maybe employer benefits if you have any that are going to continue into retirement how that's going to come into play or if you have to go out into the exchanges and go out into the Affordable Care Act in fact actually according to the Kaiser Family Foundation they put together some great research on this health care stuff but they actually said that a 64 year old couple could expect to spend about seventeen thousand dollars a year on their health care premiums for a policy that kicks in before Medicare starts and that still leaves them with about a sixty six hundred dollar out-of-pocket expense that they could have in addition to that $17,000 so that is by no means a top-of-the-line gold playing effect that's actually a silver plan kind of in the middle there but you can see if you want to retire prior to age 65 that that can start to get pretty expensive the other thing here too again taxes are going to also influence your health care as well because your Medicare premiums are going to be largely dependent on what your taxable income what that adjustable gross income is for the year so the higher that is the more likely you are to be paying on your Medicare premium so again understanding that cash flow and understanding what that future cash flow is going to help you hopefully make some better decisions regarding healthcare as well your 401k plan is going to be another one of these seven core elements that you're going to want to optimize unfortunately in my opinion I think a lot of 401k plans have really kind of watered down some of their investment options here over the last several years but there's a couple of things that you can still do to hopefully optimize or maximize some of the benefits that you have on your 401k plan so one of those things is you can go all the way up to eighteen thousand dollars a year in contributions if you're under 50 years old and if you're 50 years old or older that number can be as high as twenty four thousand dollars a year and most people probably just understand that these are the limitations of the 401k plan but some 401k plans in fact more and more are offering this feature you may have access to an after-tax savings account within your company sponsored retirement plans and that could allow you to go all the way up to as much as fifty four thousand dollars a year in total retirement account contributions and that's going to be a combination of your contributions plus any employer match that you might be getting can be as high as fifty four thousand dollars so that can allow you to extend even further some of the contributions that you're making inside the 401k the other thing that a lot of 401k plans are offering now is something called a self-directed account and that is an option that you could have inside your 401k plan that could give you access to literally thousands of additional investment options that are not of the main 401k menu so again not every 401k plan is gonna have these features but you want to definitely look into it and see if that's something now your self-directed account that may not be for everybody either because there's going to be a little bit more research and a little bit more due diligence that you're going to have to do on choosing investments but it could be a great option for somebody to get some additional resources in that 401k plan and then the last thing what will the second the last thing we want to talk about here are planning for income and again we talked about this a little bit earlier that you're in a much different stage of life once you start going into retirement and you're gonna start withdrawing or taking money out of some of these investment accounts and something we call the sequence of return starts to become a very important factor so if you think about it like this you know the market obviously is going to go up and down over time and when you are in the retirement accumulation stage of your investing as the market was maybe going through these these these motions as the market was maybe going down you were continuously hopefully making new investments into those accounts as the market was dropping and but the opposite happens though when you go into retirement if we go through a downturn and you're withdrawing money out of those portfolios that's going to have a very negative effect or can potentially have a very negative effect so we definitely need to take that into account but what we need to do before we do that is we need to understand what this cash flow is and understand where those gaps are so once we understand where those holes are in your financial plan and we know that in certain years you need to take a certain amount of money out of your retirement accounts then we can plan for that accordingly and sometimes what we do is we use what we call a bucket strategy and we just usually divide the portfolio into three buckets and we want to have some cash reserves maybe one to two years worth of cash needs in a very liquid very safe bucket so that when you do need to take money out you're not having to withdraw money from volatile investments that could be invested in the stock market you also may want to have kind of this mid-range thing maybe three to four years or three to five years worth of money that's in a my liquid bucket that's still going to be on the more conservative side and maybe some of those investments are going to pay some dividends or some interest to help you refill that that first bucket and then finally over here is your long-term bucket and that's gonna be investments that are gonna hopefully keep up with inflation provide you with some growth that hopefully if you're in retirement for what could be 20 years or maybe 30 years in length that you've got some growth vehicles there but we want to think and break down this down so that you have a plan for income and keep in mind that if you don't have a plan for income the government has one for you it's called the required minimum distribution rules and so you may know that after you turn 70 and a half you need to start taking mandatory distributions every year from your IRA accounts in your 401k plans as part of this RMD so having your own plan is usually going to be better than reverting back to the government's plan and then finally we talked about this earlier the last thing that we want to look at is the investments that we select and again once we've answered all of these other issues we've looked at the six other core elements then actually choosing the investments becomes pretty easy because now we know what investments are gonna fit into our buckets as an example which investments are going to be able to provide that income or those distribution needs which ones are going to be appropriate for your tax situation that are gonna you know help you you know plan for your Social Security your health care and all of that and then we can start looking at different investments that are going to fit into that retirement plan okay so there you have it those are the seven core elements of retirement planning and hopefully you've gotten some great information here out of watching the video here today and hopefully you've gotten a pretty good idea of how these seven core elements are all interrelated to each other and how making a decision about one item such as social security or healthcare or choosing investments why that doesn't necessarily live in a vacuum and how maybe tweaking something over here might have an influence on something over there and so really bringing everything back to cash flow is really very critical so you understand how you know making a change in one category of your retirement planning you know might impact something else so again hopefully you've already downloaded the guide take your time look through some of the information in there we try to be very thorough with some of that we've got again some great worksheets that are gonna help you really get a good start on putting together some of these retirement plans and certainly think about what you want that retirement to look like also – for some of you you may want a little bit more help and of course we do that we offer a comprehensive cash flow based financial plan that can take a look at this and we will address not only your cash flow today but what that cash flow is likely to be in the future based on what you're currently doing and we can also start to look at each one of these seven core elements and look at how each one of those is going to help you achieve those retirement goals and even if retirement still a little bit more often in the future if you've been saving money or maybe you've been putting off some of the planning that you've been doing again this is something that can help put you on a good track towards making you better well informed about getting retirement planning done

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How much do you need to retire

My father retired in 1991 after 39 years as a high school teacher. His pension, along with my mother's pension and their social security checks, added up to more than they spent every month. Dad never had to ask himself whether he'd saved enough to retire. He simply needed to work enough years to get his pension. In 1991, most people with pension plans had traditional defined benefit pensions, pensions that paid a monthly income until you died. These days, most workers with pension plans have defined contribution plans, such as 401(k) plans. Workers own the money in their retirement accounts. But they have to figure out for themselves whether it's enough to retire. How much retirement savings you need to retire is going to depend upon how old you are when you retire, how much social security you collect, what additional income you have in retirement, and how much you spend each year. Let's look at an example of how to calculate retirement saving needs.

Jocelyn is 55 and single. Her annual total salary is $44,000 a year. She plans to retire on her 70th birthday. To estimate how much money she needs to save to retire at 70, Jocelyn first writes down her current annual spending by category. Your own categories may be more or less detailed than hers. Jocelyn goes through her financial records, including her checkbook and her credit card statements for the last year, to figure out how much she spent on what. On the W2 form that her employer sent her at the beginning of the year, she sees that she paid $3,366 in FICA and Medicare taxes. Her state and federal income taxes were $4,000. She contributed $6,000 to her 401(k) retirement savings. She funded her rainy day account years ago and didn't add to it last year. Jocelyn's employer currently pays for her medical and disability insurance. Her out-of-pocket medical expenses last year, including medications, were $1,000. Rent, $15,600. Phone and utilities, $2,400. Groceries, $3,600. She spent $1,200 eating out and $1,000 on entertainment and travel. Auto maintenance cost her $1,000, auto insurance, $800, and gas, $1,000. She spent $1,200 on clothing and personal items. Jocelyn spent $600 on gifts and gave $600 to charity.

Her renters insurance and other expenses were $634. Jocelyn now goes through her list and asks herself which expenses are likely to change after she retires. She won't pay FICA and Medicare taxes after retiring. That's one big savings. Her state and federal income taxes will be lower. As we'll see, most of Jocelyn's retirement income will be her social security benefits. And at Jocelyn's income level, less than half of her social security will be subject to federal income taxes. After she retires, Jocelyn will no longer contribute to her 401(k) retirement savings account. However, she does plan to set aside $3,000 a year for unexpected expenses.

She will pay $1,500 a year for her Medicare Part B and D coverage. And her out-of-pocket medical expenses will likely increase as she ages. Jocelyn expects most of her other expenses to stay about the same after she retires. Two exceptions are that she's going to spend less money on gas, since she'll no longer be driving to work, and she plans to spend more on travel. All together, Jocelyn expects to spend about $37,134 a year after she retires. Jocelyn looks up her projected social security benefits on the Social Security website. If she starts claiming benefits at age 62, she'll receive $11,700 in today's dollars each year. If she claims at 67, she'll get $17,556 a year. And if she waits until 70 to receive Social Security, she'll receive $22,320 a year.

She'll get nearly twice the annual income if she claims social security at 70 rather than 62. Jocelyn is healthy. And her mother lived into her 90s. Her biggest financial fear is that she might outlive her savings. Waiting until 70 to claim social security is one of the most cost effective ways to provide additional income in old age. And that's what Jocelyn decides to do. Jocelyn will spend $37,134 a year in retirement and receive $22,320 in social security benefits. That leaves her with $14,814 to fund out of her retirement savings.

That's in today's dollars. When Jocelyn retires in 15 years, everything will cost more because of inflation. Fortunately, social security benefits are indexed to inflation. So her social security income will rise about as fast as her expenses do. However, in 15 years, she will need more than $14,814 to make up the difference between her social security and what she plans to spend. How much more? Over the last 25 years, inflation in the United States has been about 2.5% a year. If that trend continued, Jocelyn's $14,814 in annual expenses will be about $21,500 in 15 years.

You can calculate that by multiplying 14,814 by 1.025 to the 15th power, which equals 21,455. Alternatively, you can use one of many future inflation calculators available online. Jocelyn decides to be a bit more conservative in her projections. And she assumes that her expenses will go up by 3% a year, not 2.5%. Let's use an online calculator to see how much $14,814 will grow to in 15 years with 3% inflation. Enter the expected inflation rate of 3% a year for 15 years and a starting amount or a present value of $14,814. With inflation of 3%, Jocelyn will need about $23,000 a year in income beyond her social security when she retires in 15 years. So how much savings will Jocelyn need to provide $23,000 in income when she's 70? In a video on spending in retirement, I suggest that people apply the RMD spending rule.

That is, each year spend no more from your retirement savings than the required minimum distribution mandated by the IRS. The rule can also be used to estimate how much savings you need to provide a level of income. To do so, look up the RMD withdrawal factor for the age at which you plan to retire. You can find this on RMD calculators such as the one on investor.gov. Or you can look it up on the IRS website. Multiply the annual income you'll need by the withdrawal factor. And that gives you the amount of savings you'll need to generate that annual income under the RMD rule. In Jocelyn's case, let's keep things simple and assume that her birthday is in January. Her RMD withdrawal factor the year in which she retires, also the year in which she turns 70 and 1/2, will be 27.4.

times $23,000 is $630,200. So Jocelyn's going to need about $630,000 in savings plus her social security to support her anticipated expenses when she retires. Put differently, the year she retires, Jocelyn's required minimum distribution will be 3.65% of her retirement savings. And $23,000 is 3.65% of $630,200. So that's it. Estimate how much you're going to spend in retirement. Subtract your estimated social security benefits from that, as well as any other income you're going to have in retirement. And that gives you the expenses that you need to fund through your savings. Adjust these expenses for inflation between now and when you retire. And multiply by your RMD withdrawal factor the year that you retire. This will give you an estimate of how much money you're going to need when you retire.

Of course, your situation may be more complicated than Jocelyn's. For example, if you own your home and have a fixed rate mortgage, your mortgage expenses won't increase with inflation and will end when you pay off your mortgage. So calculate future mortgage expenses separately from your other expenses. Furthermore, if you own your home this gives you additional savings. What if you plan to retire before 70? Required minimum distributions start the year you turn 70 and 1/2. If you are thinking of retiring a few years earlier, I suggest using a withdrawal rate of 33.

That is, multiply the annual expenses you're going to need to cover from your retirement savings by 33 to get the amount of savings you'll need. If you are planning to retire many years before you turn 70, you're probably not watching this video. What if there is no way for you to save enough to fund the retirement you'd like? That's a tough problem, but not an uncommon one. To have more income in retirement, wait until 70 to claim social security benefits. Also, consider working a few more years before you retire, looking for part time work after you retire, taking in a roommate, or reducing your spending. Planning for retirement is much harder today than when my father was teaching at Mahtomedi High School. The change from traditional defined benefit pensions to 401(k) retirement plans has shifted the responsibility and risk of funding retirements from employers to individuals. You have to decide how much to save, how to invest your savings, and how much you need to retire. This video may help you figure out the minimum you'll need to retire. But you will continue to bear the risk that your investments do poorly or that you live longer than expected.

So if you possibly can, try to retire with more than the minimum. .

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What Are the Best Self-Employed Retirement Plans?

We often get the question asking us, “what's the best retirement plan if I'm self-employed?” Well, that's hard to say. There's lots of plans out there, and the best one depends on your situation, right? Do you have employees or is it just you? How old are your employees? What are their salaries? So just to simplify, I'm just going to assume that – one person, self-employed, maybe their spouse is involved in the business, but that's it, no employees. in that case, you might want to look into something called a solo 401(k) or an individual 401(k). It's really simple to set up, not really a lot of cost to maintain, but it gives you a great amount of flexibility. As a self-employed person you're the employee and the employer. And with a solo 401(k), you can make an employee contribution, as well as a profit sharing or a matching contribution on behalf of the business – again, because you're also the employer. It's straightforward, like I said, easy to set up, and gives you a pretty large amount of flexibility. If we're talking about larger plans, and something that's going to give you an even greater tax benefit, you might want to look into something called a defined benefit plan.

This is a little bit more costly to establish. There are some filing requirements, there are minimum annual funding requirements, but if you're making a fair amount of money and you're looking to put away really large sums of money, a defined benefit plan can be the way to go. You can put hundreds of thousands of dollars a year away into a plan like this. You could also pair that with a solo 401(k) to give yourself even greater flexibility. So like I said, while there's not one end all be all plan that's perfect or the right one, it's going to depend on your actual situation.

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How to Replace a $70,000 a Year Salary with Real Estate Investments and Rental Property

How can I replace $70,000 a year in annual income with rental properties that is the subject of today's video hi everyone I'm Clayton Morris the president of Morris invest let's dive into it so how do we replace seventy thousand dollars a year in annual income with passive income with rental property income from tenants every month providing cash flow from the properties that we own you might think that that sounds like a tall order but it's not and I'm going to show you how simple it can be to actually replace that annual income you know a little story about me that's in fact how I got started I was frustrated sitting down with my wife one night I said we were frustrated with our bills and I said how come at the end of the month where we still have more bills to pay and we don't have enough paycheck to cover it aren't we doing well what are we doing wrong the problem was that we weren't putting the money to work for us to start creating cash flow in our lives and creating passive income so I put together and it was really the foundation of my freedom cheat sheet it's the number that changed everything for me by the way that link you can download a free pdf it's like three pages long sit down with your husband or wife and go through it totally free the link is right below this video and it'll walk you through step by step with some numbers and figures on exactly how to figure out how many houses it will take for you to recover that annual income but I want to tackle the $70,000 question specifically most of the houses that I buy and that my company rehabs and sells are in that forty to forty five thousand dollar range okay single family homes two bedroom one bath three bedroom one bath and some duplexes okay duplexes or you know door on each side typically and two bedrooms on each side or three bedrooms on each side those are the types of properties that I buy now I buy them low and I fix them up and I place a great tenant in the property each of those properties will cashflow about $700 let's just say for round number $700 okay now think about how much is $70,000 a year how much are you probably making per week well let's bring out the calculator so $70,000 a year let's divide that by 52 weeks that's about thirteen hundred and forty six dollars a week that you are earning from your paycheck okay thirteen hundred and forty six dollars a week so now let's figure out how many houses it would take us to replace seventy thousand dollars a year in passive income seventy thousand dollars right it's a simple formula if each of our houses is bringing in seven hundred dollars a month that's a simple formula right seven hundred times 12 gives us $8,400 okay now let's take that 70 thousand dollars and let's divide it by eighty four hundred that's eight houses that is eight point three properties eight houses bringing in seven hundred dollars a month now imagine if you're buying a forty thousand dollar house if you had to bring a little bit of money to put down as a down payment or deposit you were able to reach out and get private financing or seller financing on a property then you're able to accrue these properties very quickly now some of the things I didn't talk about in this video and I can dive a little deeper now that we always want to take out money for for vacancy and repairs on our numbers right so that eighty four hundred dollars a year let's multiply that now times point six so we're gonna remove forty percent for vacancy repairs and expenses this is just to be totally conservative with your numbers so let's take that eighty four hundred dollars and let's multiply that times point six so we're bringing in about five thousand and forty dollars per property per year okay so now let's take that five thousand and divide it by seventy thousand so this will be a totally conservative number but this will help us really make sure that we're totally covered should something go wrong maybe we have a vacancy for a few weeks or a month or two in one of our properties this will take in that into account so seventy thousand dollars let's divide that by five thousand forty that gives us thirteen point eight properties so let's round that up fourteen properties fourteen properties would bring you about seventy thousand dollars a year in net income that would replace that $70,000 paycheck that you're making every year then in other videos in this series I'm going to go through exactly how to find properties how to acquire properties but just for the sake of this video I wanted you to start to put your mind in a place where you can begin to reverse engineer that number for a lot of people you don't think that you're going to be able to create passive income or bring in that much cash every year hogwash I do it hundreds of thousands of other investors out there do it every day they do it exactly the way that I do it some buy residential properties some buy commercial properties it doesn't matter it can be done that's what I do I'm Clayton Morris

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Tax Tips for Retirees – TurboTax Tax Tip Video

Hello, I'm Jeremy from TurboTax with some tax tips for retirees. Now that you are retired and enjoying life, the last thing on your mind is likely to be your federal income tax. But there are still ways you can minimize the amount you owe each year. It's likely you receive monthly social security benefits. But did you know that it is possible for the IRS to tax some of those payments. This only happens if the other income you receive is too high. Generally, if all your other income plus 50 percent of your social security benefits exceed a certain threshold for your filing status then you will end up paying some tax on your benefits. If you do pay some income tax on those benefits, there are other things you can do to limit the impact of those taxes. One option is to find some tax-exempt investments to replace some of the taxable ones you own. This way you reduce your overall tax and can possibly keep your social security benefits in lower tax brackets. An example of this type of investment is state and local municipal bonds. The interest you earn on those bonds are exempt from federal tax.

And, in some cases it may also be exempt from state income tax. One other way to reduce your tax liability is by claiming the tax credit for the elderly and disabled. As long as you are at least 65 years old, file a joint return if married, and meet other income requirements it can be a valuable tax reduction tool. For more tax tips and guidance, visit TurboTax.com. .

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